Sometimes my wife and I are invited by some very good friends to a very special dinner - "Gruenkohl" with or without "Pinkel". To explain this in English is not so easy. First this is a typical dish in the north-west of Germany in winter time. Traditionally the "Gruenkohl" (green cabbage) is served with "Kasseler" (smoked pork chop), "Kohlwurst" (cabbage sausage) and fried potatoes. Often the fried potatoes are sprinkled with sugar. Last evening the Gruenkohl was served in exactly that way with pig's cheek in addition. But what about the "Pinkel"? Yep. The "Pinkel" can be described best as black or white pudding. For all our conditions it was good that the "Pinkel" was not part of yesterday's dinner:-).
Gruenkohl is not only a dish; it is a philosophy. And for "real" Gruenkohl connaisseurs there is only one pairing drink - beer from northern Germany. Perhaps water is tolerated for non-alcoholics. But not more. And if you ask the internet community about pairing wine you will be insulted. My opinion is that this has something to do with the German wine style which really does not fit with Gruenkohl. Wonderful German Rieslings or Pinots are killed by this very rich dish. A total different view you can get if you try a Chardonnay or a Syrah in a New World's style. I decided to try a 2010 Pedroncelli Chardonnay Vintage Selection from the Dry Creek Valley. This wine has the advantage that the vanilla and toast aromas are not so extreme, but the wine itself is strong enough to give the right answer to the Gruenkohl - at least I hoped that.
The first glass (without the Gruenkohl) offers a grassy yellow colour with some veils. Very light vanilla and pear aromas with some other fruits in the background. Fresh and still young. The first sip offers the other fruits: Some lemons, pineapples and lichees. Long finish. Very good (88/100).
But what happens together with the Gruenkohl? The combination was amazing and the wine paired wonderfully. The discrete vanilla aromas took away a little bit the fat part of the dish without overwhelming it. The wine itself becomes a little bit spicy. Important: Shift the contact point for five to 10 seconds. Don't drink directly after a mouthful of Gruenkohl. Interesting also the different aromas depending on whether I took a single ingredient or a mixture. My favourite: Some Gruenkohl and a little bit of pig's cheek. Outstanding.
Next year I will change from white to red wine. I have in mind a full-bodied Syrah. I will report.
Saturday, March 22. 2014
Green Cabbage - The Challenge 2
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